MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby Mustang Barry » Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:48 pm

Figures. Any advantage other than weight reduction? And was that the driving decision for you fitting them?

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby mattmoxon » Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:26 pm

Mustang Barry wrote:Figures. Any advantage other than weight reduction? And was that the driving decision for you fitting them?


I am hoping that the weight reduction helps quicken the response time of the car off the line, at the moment when I launch I am going somewhere between the 2nd and 3rd bulbs on the tree - which means counting the tree down. I'd really like to be able to go on the third bulb and get consistent and good reaction times.

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby Mustang Barry » Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:49 pm

I meant apart from weight reduction? Like handling. I guess not on the strip, but you use it on road too. Any difference in feel there?

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby mattmoxon » Tue Oct 29, 2013 11:10 pm

Mustang Barry wrote:I meant apart from weight reduction? Like handling. I guess not on the strip, but you use it on road too. Any difference in feel there?


Ahh sorry, it does feel tighter at the front end in general, the increase in feedback through the wheel is noticeable, the turn in feels a tad more confident at speed. Though I do have the poly bushed BMR A arms fitted too so I get more feedback from them - not sure if it would have the same affect with the stock arms and their massive rubber bushes, it may be a case of everything working together.

However, if you are thinking of fitting one be aware of the polyurethane engine mounts; the NVH from the engine goes up considerably.

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby Twin Turbo » Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:17 am

Good write-up, matey.

Your photo.........or at least your car's photo at the strip, seems to appear in every copy of American Car :)

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby Spurs » Fri Nov 08, 2013 8:08 am

Great write up dude!!

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby mattmoxon » Fri Nov 08, 2013 4:11 pm

Twin Turbo wrote:Good write-up, matey.

Your photo.........or at least your car's photo at the strip, seems to appear in every copy of American Car :)


So I have noticed, I assume they are American Super Stock write ups.

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby mattmoxon » Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:22 pm

So here we are 2014, still no track time yet but hey ho that’s drag racing in the UK for you we had a few good weekends (albeit windy) but I was awaiting a few parts and as soon as they were fitted the rain returned, maybe I should have bought a tank and gone tearing up ATV parks and 4x4 trails instead…

Nothing performance related (in terms of actually making the car faster) but things that do relate to the vehicles general performance of the engine and drive train if that makes sense. I learned last year at the dial in day that hot lapping really makes the transmission wince and can drastically affect the times so a transmission temperature gauge was in order as was a wideband AFR gauge with data logger output to better the tunes. With gauges on the brain I also ordered an oil pressure gauge for the engine too as the engine has no stock oil pressure sensor just a pressure switch to make the idiot light and idiot gauge on the instruments “work” (the battery condition gauge is the same).

So after browsing Auto Meter I bought the following stepper motor drive gauges:
Auto Meter Cobalt transmission temperature gauge:
Image

Auto Meter Cobalt oil pressure gauge:
Image

Auto Meter Cobalt AFR gauge (digital):
Image

For those wanting to fit a Wideband it has to be a proper full kit with the sensors, DO NOT be tempted by the cheaper (by 2/3 of the price) AFR gauges that connect to the stock upstream oxygen sensors, as this will not give the correct readout. Some cars do come with wideband sensors as stock, the 05-09 Mustang is not one of them, buy the full kit!

Mounting the gauges was taken care of by a company called Speed of Sound: http://www.speedofsoundllc.com/05_Radiopanels.html and their dash fascia that replaces the stock double DIN stereo with a single DIN stereo and three 2 & 1/16” gauge holes. I placed a bit of matt black vinyl on the front of the facia as their satin black wasn’t quite satin enough for me, that way it looks like the stock black plastic dash panels.

The new radio was on a half price offer in the January sale at Halfords and is a Sony CDX-GT570UI, the radio harness adaptor (Kit No: 70-5521) came from Installer.com in the US the site look a bit mad (possibly NSFW if your employer doesn’t like large breasted manga comic style women) but I can’t fault the service. I joined this harness with the radio end of the harness that came with the new radio.

Radio:
Image

For wiring a new radio into a Mustang GT (for those thinking of doing it or are just interested) see Mole Hill Mikes instructions here:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4018

I have made good use of bullet type plugs to make it easier to remove gauges and parts of the harness if I have to.

I’ll apologise in advance for the lack of photos because the weekend I decided to do this load of modifying it was cold and wet, and I was pissed off so I just wanted to get it done so no photo heavy write up – sorry :)

The first stage of the modification was carried out by a mate of mine at A&A Motors as it requires a ramp because the downpipe and cats have to be removed to drill a hole in the driver’s side downpipe to weld the boss in place for the wideband oxygen sensor to mount in (I don’t want swarf and metal chippings in the cat!). The hole in the boss was then plugged so the car could still be driven (see Note2 later on). At the same time he also fitted the transmission temperature sender and ran its wire harness into the passenger foot well. He had to drop the transmission a bit to make it easier as there is only 2” clearance between the body and the transmission. With that done and the readies handed over I now just had to wait for the remaining part (the fascia) to arrive from the US, which was delayed due to the ship having an engine fault.

With the last of the parts now delivered, the first thing I did was all the other activities around a 70,000 mile service, because messing around with the plumbing means that having no oil in the motor and given the location having the oil filter off is a sensible idea as it gives me more room to work.

I removed the stock oil pressure switch from the hole and cut the wire, setting this aside I cleaned the threads in the hole mopping up any excess oil. Before I could mount the new sender I had to fit a 1/4 NPT to 1/8 NPT adaptor so that I could screw in the new oil pressure sender (1/8 NPT thread), with that done I fitted the new oil filter and filled the engine with 6 quarts (5.7liters) of Lucas 5w-20 oil.

I make a temporary earth from the old oil pressure switch to allow me to run the engine up (leak check) with no dash warnings; thankfully all was well (I’ll keep any eye on it for a week or so). Whilst the engine etc. was cooling off I stripped the interior and removed the old radio, these cars are built very nicely when it comes to taking things apart, it literally click fits for the most part, though I wish the HVAC wires were a tad longer to make their fitting and removal easier. I took this opportunity to test the new radio which worked nicely – this is going far too well.


Fitting the wideband AFR gauge

The first task is to remove driver’s side wheel and wheel arch boot this gives reasonable access for the wiring, you will have to be under the car to mount the oxygen sensor, this goes in the BOSS already welded into the exhaust, this was placed on the driver’s side as it was the only available place to put it. A 22mm spanner is needed to screw the sensor (you can’t get a socket or ring spanner with ratchet in) into the boss, I tightened it up to the point where I couldn’t tighten it any more.

NOTE 1: The sensor in the Autometer gauge kit already had thread sealant applied so no high temperature sealer was required, other gauge kits may require it.
NOTE 2: DO NOT under ANY circumstances start the engine to leak check at this point, the new oxygen sensor has to have a power supply to its heater otherwise it will be killed!

The next job is to run the harness in, its quite thick with a big connector on the end so it was going to be a pain to pass through the firewall grommets, I cut a small cross in the large pre-existing grommet and pushed the gauge connector through (I ran the original pressure switch earth and oil pressure sender harness in at this point too) into the cabin and got as much of the cable through as possible, you can then pull any extra you need back through.

I connected up the sender to the harness and along with the pressure sender harness zip tied it up to an original loom, being careful to leave some slack to allow the engine to move around. I then gummed up the cut out with silicone sealant so ensure no water could get through the grommet. With all the cables secured the wheel arch boot and wheel can be re fitted and the car can be taken off the jack stands.

Now you have to route the cable to your gauge location, I went with the centre console. The good thing is that there is a pre-existing loom that runs around under the dash that can be used to support the cable, zip ties are used. I chose this point to mount the phono jack I will be using to connect the signal out and signal ground to my SCT tuner. I connected the signal to the centre pin and the ground to the outside.

I pulled all the wires through into the centre console and made sure that each gauge’s loom was separate to avoid the almost inevitable rats nest caused by the mystical wire pixies that seem to be able to stealthily tangle up wires and cables that were placed neatly.

Given that the signal out and signal ground are already connected (I used bullet plugs in line with them to make the install easier) the wires remaining are:

WOT switch
Ground
+12V

There is no lighting connection because the gauge is digital (an analogue style gauge might have one though), I don’t have a mechanical throttle nor any other way of connecting the WOT switch so I tied this in with the ground connection, this just means it will monitor for peak conditions all the time rather than just at WOT.

For power I have run a mini add-a-circuit from the fuse box in the passenger foot well, I have piggy backed on the automatic gearboxes overdrive enable/disable power as it was one of the few active switched lives in that box that wasn’t already on the 10A circuit limit, this feeds through a 3A fuse into the wideband gauge.

That’s it, the gauge can now be connected and the engine started to check its operation.


Finishing the install, centre console

I pre-mounted the gauges in the new fascia panel (with thanks to Dremel here, that little tool of theirs is worth its weight in gold) with their angle plates in place to point them towards the driver, and no doubt saved me hours in slowly grinding out the holes for the gauges (and some use of a hand file to get the radio cage to fit) - $70 for this and I still have to make adjustments…

The switched live (as mentioned above) is already there as is the transmission temperature gauge harness which I ran in at the same time.

The earth was provided by drilling a hole in the pre-existing metal work (use cutting fluid or do it in stages as the metal is thick and hard) and crimp on eyelets placed on all the connections that required and earth (five in total).

This is where things (aside from frequent stops for the weather) started to go wrong The lighting feed I thought I had from the radio harness turns out to be a duff connection. The dash lighting is controlled by the CAN bus not a variable voltage supply, one saving grace is the rear fog light (not standard fit on a US car) which has a switched light supply on it. so I have to rip out the driver’s side dash panel to get at it. This allows me to remove a section of the insulation and solder (no bodge job scotch locks used here thank you very much) in a lead to provide power to the gauges (the gauges use LED backlights so the circuit won’t even notice the drain) and run in the wire under the dash to the centre console.

The next step is simply a case of connecting everything up including a 1A fuse for the pressure and temperature gauges.

The radio is fixed into the cage (already mounted in the fascia) and connected up to the wiring harness and Arial connection; a quick test (ignition on, engine off) before bolting it back together reveals no immediate issues (no escaping magic smoke and fire pixies).

Now the interior is put back together and the car taken for a drive

Install, power off:
Image

Install, power on:
Image

All that remains is for me to do some data logging to get the tune refined, thanks for reading the update (I realise it’s a lot of text – sorry) :)

The next update will hopefully be after I have been on the track (2/3 weeks’ time at Santa Pod weather depending).

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby Molehill_Mike » Tue Mar 25, 2014 10:46 am

Excellent post Matt, top stuff!

Out of interest...why did you put the gauges below the radio, rather than above? Easier for wiring/fitment?

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby mattmoxon » Tue Mar 25, 2014 12:02 pm

Molehill_Mike wrote:Excellent post Matt, top stuff!

Out of interest...why did you put the gauges below the radio, rather than above? Easier for wiring/fitment?


Dunno, personal preference I guess, no other reason :)

The rear support for the radio (the rubber bit at the back) also only has a hole to slot into at the top, but given the Sony unit isn't quite long enough to utilise that it doesn't matter too much which way round it goes as there was a couple of feet of spare wire for the AFR gauge and a foot or so for the other two.

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby mattmoxon » Sun Apr 27, 2014 10:58 pm

Well another small update I have installed a polished aluminium catch can on the outlet side of the engine breather (its not really a proper PCV) to catch all the oil that gets drawn out of the camshaft covers.

I went for the UPR Catch can kit because it is made to fit the car, rather than a universal kit.

The kit:
Image

The short pipe connecting the camshaft cover to the intake in the center of this picture is the one to be replaced:
Image

The pipe simply un-clips and as the connectors are not needed for the install I put the pipe away safely so it can be re-fitted if I ever decide I don't want the catch can on the car.

In the next picture you can see the can installed, however this was not without its problems:
Image

As you can see the tank is bolted to the strut tower on a pre-existing bolt, now the bracket underneath carries an air conditioning component (not sure what it is (its not the high or low side of the pressure system)), I am sure somebody will tell me). THis would not allow the catch can to sit as per UPR's instructions, it basically sat on the cam cover with around 1" of space between the top of the turret bracket and the tanks mounting bracket.

So inverting the bracket for the catch tank gave me a bit of extra room but not enough. So I removed the black bracket from the tower and bent it out a bit more to give more clearance. A foam tape number plate pad should prevent it from vibrating against the shock tower. This gave me the clearance I needed to install the tank:
Image

As you can see it only just fits with probably 5mm or so clearance between the base of it and the cam cover.

And finally the pipes installed and hooked up:
Image

The kit did not supply the jubilee clips and didn't call for them, given its low pressure they probably aren't necessary but for a couple of quid the extra security is worth it in my opinion.

For those that are wondering the catch tank has a screw off base to collect the oil blown back into the intake. What the catch can has is a wire wool filter in the top that catches the oil vapor, once stopped by the filter it to runs down into the base of the can where it pools.

I have been back to the track and I do have some video (needs editing first and I can't find my premier pro disk), I have had a couple of data logged runs which have resulted in a tune file coming back from the US that will hopefully be tested this weekend. The car has run slower than it did in the past in light of the tune being very very safe (only the 3.73 gears making up for the apparent power loss). So we shall see what comes this weekend at York Raceway.

And for those wondering how I did at the track, well at the Big Bang at Santa Pod, I managed to qualify 5th out of seven cars and took the runners up trophy being beaten by 0.08 of a second.

Last weekend at The Festival of power I qualified 3rd of nine cars and sadly went out in the first round by being a bit too quick of the start line (0.068 seconds) but the rain came down and stopped play all together which meant that no further points were awarded (no more rounds won/lost) over and above round one so punishment for being silly was avoided.

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby Molehill_Mike » Mon Apr 28, 2014 9:05 am

Hey Matt,

When I got in the office today I was sent a video asking if my car had been at POD, i am pretty sure it is a video of yours. Drop me a PM with your email and I will forward it on :)

Nice work on the car by the way, very much impressed :)

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby mattmoxon » Mon Apr 28, 2014 7:47 pm

Quick update, I have a video sorted now, Qualifying run 2; Festival of Power:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtACvUkqQhI

Sadly it was a 13.3471 on a 13.35 second dial in, break out by 0.0029 of a second...

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby mattmoxon » Sun May 18, 2014 2:19 pm

Another quick update on the progress front.

I am now through with US based tuners, I am sick to death of single line or in some cases one word e-mail replies (they don’t even have the standard canned footer of “thanks for your business" on them) and the lack of listening in general.

The revised tune that came back from the tuners in the US still allowed the engine to peak at 7400rpm in the burnout, which isn't ideal for large V8 which has a factory limiter of 6500 and a stock shift point of 6250, there is obviously a couple of hundred RPM to play with on this as it is set as a safe limit for longevity (usually around 300rpm more and raise the shift ceiling to 6500) of the engine and drive train.

So with my confidence in remote tuning damaged I phoned John Sleath Race Cars Ltd. and booked in for a dyno tuning session. The car now has a rev limiter and I have a power figure, 271bhp at the rear wheels, (John only gives a rear wheel figure as estimating the crank figure from the rundown drag is just that – an estimate) so given that the transmission losses for a 2006 Mustang GT auto are in the 20 - 25% range I will take the conservative option of 20% which means the car is putting out around 325hp at the flywheel which given the reported gains for the mods I have fitted (cold air intake, tune and FRPP manifold) is about right. But that is a guestimate, might be more might be less. But I am still very happy with the results. The old race tune was run on the dyno from the US and it was only 0.5hp less than Johns tune (the AFR was a bit richer on that tune so it probably explains it).

Here is a picture of the car on the rolling road:

Image

And a video of the dyno pull. You will need reasonable speakers to listen to this otherwise you will just get the howl of the car interacting with the dyno rather than the engine noise of the car, enjoy:

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAhuqlJEmzo[/youtube]

When I looked at the on track trace (you will hear it on the last video at Santa Pod that I posted) there appeared to be a little dip in revs are in 4th gear on the track, its nothing to do with a bad tune its simply the gearbox locking up and putting a bit of extra load on the engine at that point there isn't much that can be done at that point to compensate for it, but at least I now know it isn't a problem :)

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Re: MattMoxon's Mustang GT Evolution

Postby Mustang Barry » Mon May 19, 2014 6:45 pm

Another thorough write up. :rock

I guess US tuners just think we don't matter. Our business can't be that important to them. Shame.


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